Mainhull frame tops and bottoms dry fitted

bottom and top of frame 6 scarf dry fitted

edge view of of frame 6 scarf dry fitted

• the scarf joints were dry fitted and the alignment carefully confirmed for each frame
• 1/4" pilot holes were then drilled through the overlapping portion to make future alignment easy and accurate 
• just insert 1/4" drill bits or dowels to align, then clamp and let the epoxy cure 
• only the bottom sections of the mainhull frames will be set up on the strongback, so that hull construction can fit within the 6' - 6" headroom of the shop
• the top portions of the frames will be scarfed on after the hull is completed up to the gunnel, rolled upright, and moved out of the shop 

Mainhull frame top section scarfs

here is the scarf on the top section of frame 6

the scarf only extends across the middle portion where the bottom section will overlap

Mainhull frames made with scarfs

bottom of frames 9, 10, 11, 12

bottom of frames 6,7,8,9

scarf on the top edge will mate the top and bottom sections of each frame

Mainhull frames

• first mainhull frame #6 cut out of Baltic birch ply
• 3/8" x 9 layers, nice plywood to work with

Winches

Barient stainless winches and Edson destroyer wheel acquired on eBay at great prices

Floats in storage:

Floats tarped and set aside until the main hull and beams are made.

Then hulls can be aligned and beams/bulkheads drilled through for bolts. 

This will guarantee that bolt holes all line up and hold the hulls in the proper orientation.

After all this the decks can be installed on the floats.

Starboard float interior

 float interior shots from bow to stern - 3 coats of epoxy

 deck beam epoxied over aluminum plate

 

• bolt holes have been drilled through frames and aluminum plates as per section drawing
• beams will be carefully fitted dry and then these holes will be further drilled through them
• this will guarantee a good match between beam and float holes
• the float deck can go on after the holes are drilled through